I have never thought of Luke Azzopardi as purely a fashion designer. There is considerably more to his work than mere couture. His shows are as much installation and performance art as they are runway events. I remember his first big show in the wonderful Neo-Gothic setting of a former church in Floriana several years ago; and he has managed to surprise us with every one of his venues since.
This time the defilé was held at the magnificent Gran Sala of the Archaeology Museum in Valletta - a baroque gem with richly painted walls and a trussed wooden ceiling - where we were able to observe restorers on scaffolding working high up on the walls as the show unfolded beneath.
As his inspiration he cites the poem ‘Isabella or the pot of basil’ by Keats, which he translates into his own search for beauty and authenticity; something that is disappearing from these islands at a fast rate.
As the collection was presented it seemed to me like a journey through the History of Art. There were flowing dresses inspired by ancient goddesses, chaste medieval gowns, (thank you Luke for giving us the option of long sleeves) including romantic Juliet capes. Many of the pieces reminded me of the flattering dresses worn by maidens in the romantic paintings of the likes of William Waterhouse or Henry Fuseli. We were also treated to a delectable Romeo in a floor length black gown … or was he just an apparition, a remnant of the museum’s glorious past as an ‘Auberge’ of the Knights of Malta.
Of course, there were also the contemporary pieces that had everything going for them. They can best be described with more language borrowed from the art world. These gowns exhibited everything from abstract qualities to clear lines, fine silhouettes, striking brushwork and vivid colours. A particular favourite of mine was a dress that echoed the patterns and colours of the very room we were in, epitomising the quintessential LUKE AZZOPARDI gown you need to have in your wardrobe.
I would also like to mention here that while other designers often only pay lip service to "dressing all women" Luke goes a step further by using models of different ages and sizes to prove that every woman can wear LUKE AZZOPARDI.
By a mere coincidence I happened to meet Luke’s Sixth Form Art teacher at another event the following evening. He told me that Luke used to take his painted canvases to school all folded up. Yes, I thought, that figures, he has never been one for convention but always one for 'bending' the rules. And making a success of it.
You can contact Luke about commissioning a bespoke dress or acquiring a piece from this collection through his Facebook page or his website.
He has also promised to give more insights into the ‘birth’ of the gowns, so do follow him for glimpses of his creative process either on Facebook or on Instagram.
Did you get curious about Keat’s poem like I did? You can read it here.
And do have a look at the venue, a piece of Maltese heritage … still untouched.
The following photos were taken by Jamie Iain Genovese, except for the one of Kim, the male model. That one was taken by Brian Grech.
Please click through the gallery to have a closer look.